by Deborah Kelly
Now available made-to-order from DCDK.Jewelry
4 – 7 ½ inch pieces of 22 gauge round wire
1 – 6 foot long piece of 28 gauge round wire
1 – 8 mm round cabochon
Round nose pliers
Flat or chain nose pliers
Take one of the 22 gauge wires and wrap one end of the 28 gauge weaving wire around it about 2 ¼ inches away from the end of the wire twice.
Wrap in the direction of the longer end of the 22 gauge wire.
Put a 2nd 22 gauge wire right next to the one with the wraps on it.
Wrap both 22 gauge wires with the 28 gauge wire once.
Put a 3rd 22 gauge wire right next to the 2nd 22 gauge wire.
Take the weaving wire around the 2nd and 3rd 22 gauge wires added once.
Repeat step 3 with the last of the 22 gauge base wires, by placing the 4th and last base wire next to the 3rd base wire and wrapping just the 4th and 3rd base wire once.
Now wrap in the other direction.
Take the 28 gauge weaving wire and wrap it once around the 2nd and 3rd base wires that were added.
Next wrap the weaving wire around the 1st and 2nd base wires once.
Then wrap the weaving wire around the 1st base wire twice.
This weave does NOT look the same on the front and the back.
On the front the weaving wire only goes over two base wires at a time.
On the back of this weave the weaving wire goes over either 1 or 3 base wires depending on the direction the weave is going.
Continue this weave, pushing the weave together tightly with either a finger nail or gently with pliers.
At 2 ½ inches long this weave will make a size 9.5 ring.
Measure the circumference of the ring mandrel or the intended finger and make the weave about 1/8 of an inch smaller then the measurement.
Wrap weave around a ring mandrel at the size desired.
Interweave the base wire ends together in order to get a nice ring shape on the ring shank.
Bend the base wires coming out of the weave into a 90 degree angle away from the weave.
Bend them one at a time to put a curve in them.
Take the weaving wire and weave over two wires at a time along one side, tying the two ends of the ring shank together on one side.
Weave back to the starting side.
Wrap the weaving wire around the last wire 2 times, cut the weaving wire close and smooth the end with pliers.
Wrap the weaving wire around one outside base wires on the other side of the ring 3 times.
Wrap the weaving wire around first two base wires, then around the next two, finally wrap around the last two base wires.
Next wrap the weaving wire around one of the middle two base wires 3 times.
Then wrap around the middle two base wires twice.
Repeat wrapping around the first middle wire three times and then both middle wires twice.
Repeat this weave for about 2 ¼ inches.
End weaving wire by wrapping it around the base wire 3 times and cutting it close
Smooth the cut end of the wire with pliers.
Place the cab on the ring were the shank of the ring meets.
Take a base wire from the outside of the wires opposite of side with the weave.
Bring the wire across the stone to by where the weave is.
Take the wire from by the weave and next to where the first cross over wire was placed and cross over the wire to the other side of the stone, place the wire between the wires on the other side of the stone.
Next take a wire from the other side of the ring and bring it across the stone.
Each wire should be to the same side of the previous wire placed over the top of the stone.
For example to the right side of the first wire crossed over the stone.
Bend all the non woven wires down away from the stone of the ring.
Wrap the woven wires around the outside of the stone.
Cut off the non woven wire ends at about 1/8 of an inch and bend around the wires under the stone and tuck into space on the back side of where the stone sites on the ring.
Repeat on the other side of the ring with the non woven wires.
Gently put the ends of the wires with the weave on them under the wrapped weave (so under itself) across from were the weave first starts wrapping around the stone.
Pull weave as tightly as possible around the stone.
Pliers may come in handy shaping the weave around the stone.
Do not pull to tight or the weave will pop right off.
Cut off end of the weave at about 1/8th of an inch and bend and tuck into space under the wires beneath the stone.
Take pliers and put a wave like pattern in the wires going across the stone.
Check for any non tucked wires.
Slip the ring on the mandrel to check side and straighten out the shank if needed.