Cocktail Ring

by Deborah Kelly

Now available made-to-order from DCDK.Jewelry

Materials Needed

  • 5 – 18 or 20 gauge round wires 5 ½ inches long

  • 1 – 20 or 22 gauge round wires 9 inches long

  • 3 to 5 size 11 seed beads that fit on the smaller wire

Tools Required

  • Flat or Chain nose pliers

  • Wire Cutters

  • Ring mandrel


Step 1

Take the 5 larger gauge wires and straighten them. Lay the 5 wires side by side.

Step 2

Take the pliers and bend the end of the smaller gauge wire over to form a hook.

The hook should be shorter than the width of the 5 wires next to each other.

Step 3

Use the hook to go around the bundle of five wires, about ½ to ¾ of an inch to one side of center on the 5 wire bundle.

Use the pliers to crimp the hook around the bundle of wires.

Step 4

Wrap the smaller gauge wire around the 5 wires that are bundled side by side three times.

Step 5

Bring the wrapping wire to the side the wire was started on.

Cut it long enough to fold over at lest two of the wire bundled together.

Step 6

Repeat on the other side of the center of the bundled wires about the same distance from the center.

Leave about 1 1/8th inches between wraps for a ring size about a 7 to an 8 ½, leave more room for ring larger sizes and less for smaller size.

Step 7

Separate the wires of both ends of the ring right after where the band is wrapped.

Step 8

Wrap the ring band around a ring mandrel 2 sizes smaller than the intended size.

Interlace the ends of the wires, bending them slightly around the ring mandrel as they are being interlaced.

Make sure when interlacing the wires to alternate sides so no wires from the same sides are next to each other.

Step 9

Pull the interlaced wires tight and smooth down onto the ring band, check your wires to make sure none of them crossed.

Gently force the ring down the mandrel till you get it to about 2 sizes bigger than you want the ring to be.

Keep the ends of the wires tight as it is forced down the mandrel.

Step 10

Take the remaining small wire and make a hook on the end.

The hook needs to be long enough to go at lest half way down the center of the interlaced part of the ring.

Take pliers and bend the very tip of the hook in some, this makes it so once crimped around the interlaced front of the ring it stays better and is less likely to be felt.

Step 11

Hook the wire just to one side of center on the interlaced part of the ring.

Take pliers and crimp into place.

Wrap wire around twice going towards the center of the interlaced part of the ring.

Use your pliers to set each wrap nice and tight.

Step 12

On the third time the wire comes the front of the ring put the seed beads on the wire.

Step 13

Wrap around twice more setting each wrap as it is done by squeezing the wire lightly with the pliers.

Cut the wrapping wire off so it will be able to cover about half the interlaced wires on the front inside of the ring.

Bend the tip of the wire a little so it tucks in then crimped down.

Crimp wire down. Feel the inside of the ring for any sharp ends.

Step 14

Put ring back on mandrel and gently push down till it is 2 ring sizes bigger than desired.

Step 15

Take the ring off the mandrel and while holding the band of the ring grasp the wires coming off one side and bend away from the side where the last wire is on the outside of the interlaced wires.

It comes out smoothest if you can bend all the wires at the same time, however, that does not always work and it is OK to bend the wires one at a time.

Step 16

Take one side and bend the wires over the edge of the ring.

I do this with my hands if the wire is too stiff pliers may be used.

Try not to mar the wire.

Step 17

Cut the wires at about 3/8 of an inch.

Take the pliers and grab just the ends of the wires and start bending them down towards the inside of the ring.

This bends the ends of the wire more then the rest so the wires tuck in better and do not scratch the wearer of the ring.

Step 18

Go from the side of the ring with the pliers and bend the wires the rest of the way and lightly crimp them down against the band on the inside of the ring.

Feel to see if there is any sharp edges, if there are use your pliers to crimp them down a little more.

Step 19

Repeat on the other side of the ring.

Use pliers to make the inside of the ring neat.

Feel for any sharp edges.

Step 20

Put back on the ring mandrel and make sure it is the right size, if a little small gently push down on the ring till it is the right size.

Step 21

Enjoy the new ring.

Deborah Kelly

View posts by Deborah Kelly
I grew up on top of a mountain in the middle of nowhere Oregon. Met and married my Husband before going to OSU and getting a BS in Apparel Design in 2002. I started out making beaded jewelry in my early teen years. Both free hand and on a loom. Year after graduating I moved to MO and started making cosmetics and continued experimenting in soap making which I started in college. During my years in MO I started getting into baking and did events as a self employed concession stand vendor. I really did love my cotton candy machine. At events I did more then just cotton candy. I had a 2 head espresso machine, hot dog steamer, made hard candy to sell, and did 21 flavors of snow cones. While doing all of that I also learned to fix my own vehicles because when I did take them to a mechanic I had to fix them when I got them back. After our 3rd child was born in 2010 we lost our house and hit the road in an RV. One winter we ended up in Quartzsite AZ where I started making wire jewelry. Since then I have started designing wire jewelry, became an instructor at the gem club in Quartzsite. Started teaching independent jewelry making classes. Writing and selling tutorials for jewelry making. In the summer I am a property locator, photographer and videographer. I also spend my summer working on my own project to give back to the universe by making and giving away my jewelry because everyone needs something pretty.
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